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Petualangan ke Kamboja: Sebuah Goresan Tinta Peradaban

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Melangkahkan kaki  menuju negara Kamboja,  menilik jejak  sejarah  di sudut kota Siem Riep dan Pnom Penh , yang memperlihatkan sebuah misteri, keindahan, keagungan, eksotisme, tragedi berdarah hingga keberanian mencicipi kuliner  ekstrimnya.

 

Perjalanan ini  dimulai dari Bangkok pagi hari menggunakan bis umum menuju kota Aranyaprathet-Poipet perbatasan negara Thailand dan Kamboja . Suatu perjalanan darat selama lebih kurang 6 jam yang sarat pengalaman, seru, dan mendebarkan. Sebuah  catatan kertas “healthy declare” yang harus diisi disodorkan petugas sesampai diperbatasan, dilanjutkan proses imigrasi.  Menuju terminal bis di Poi Pet tersedia “free shuttle bus”. Perjalanan berlanjut menuju Siem Riep, ada kejadian menarik saat bis menepi di Phkayproek Kralanh untuk istirahat dan makan. Terdapat sekelompok anak kecil dengan wajah dekil dan kuyu terlihat menyerbu penumpang untuk sekedar meminta dan menawarkan kerajinan gelang nylon yang dibuatnya

Hari mulai gelap, tibalah di Siem Riep kota kecil yang menyedot perhatian turis asing. Seorang sopir tuk-tuk dengan sopan menawarkan jasanya. Mr. Chantol namanya, seorang sarjana komunikasi (bersyukur mendapatkan sopir yg bisa bahasa Inggris).

Negara dengan Seribu Candi

Tuk-tuk,  telah melaju membelah kota Siem Riep dalam keremangan subuh, menyusuri jalanan menuju kawasan Angkor Wat, tiket seharga 20  $ US  menjadi pilihan untuk seharian bisa keluar masuk kawasan candi. Berjalan, berpacu menahan hawa dingin yang menusuk tulang meraba-raba dikegelapan  dengan cahaya senter yg mulai meredup bersama dengan ratusan turis menuju lokasi  sunrise yang menyembul diantara celah 3 stupa candi Angkor Wat yang kesohor itu. Setelah sarapan, perjalanan dilanjutkan menuju ” Chong Kreas Floating Village” sebuah perkampungan unik yang mengapung diatas sungai. Pemandangan bangunan warung kelontong, beragam rumah tinggal, gereja, kantor polisi, bengkel kecil dan rumah makan yang mengapung diatas air cukup menarik, sebuah potret utuh dari realita kemiskinan tercermin disini. Dengan menyewa perahu mengelilingi kampung sambil mendengar kisah Chantol, bahwa orang tuanya pernah tinggal disini dan dia menjadi tulang punggung keluarga. Kemiskinan tidak menyurutkan usaha menyelesaikan kuliahnya meskipun putus sambung. Pekerjaan layak sangat sulit didapatkan sehingga dia pun mencoba peruntungan sebagai sopir tuk tuk dan saya merupakan tamu pertama baginya.

Mengelilingi kompleks candi di Angkor Wat seperti membuka album sejarah masa lalu Siem Riep. Turis manca negara memenuhi kawasan ini. Angkor Thomb dan candi-candi disekitarnya, menjadi pilihan untuk menyaksikan tenggelamnya sang surya, sebuah candi dengan stupa berwajah manusia . Hampir setiap candi dikawasan Angkor  Wat dipenuhi dengan relief ”Apsara Dance” sepasang wanita penari yang eksotik, sosok penari tersebut telah menjadi salah satu ikon negara Kamboja, yang banyak ditemukan dalam bentuk souvenir khas kamboja seperti lukisan cat minyak, kertas bahkan menjadi hiasan dibeberapa pintu perkantoran.

 Pesona ”Apsara Dance”  dan Keremangan Malam Siem Riep

Kehidupan di Siem Riep hampir mirip daerah Kute di Bali. Hotel, bungalow yang cantik, resto-resto yang memanjakan lidah hampir terlihat ditiap sudut kota dengan dominasi kehidupan turis manca negara yang sangat kontras jika dibandingkan dengan kehidupan Phnom Penh penh ibukotanya sendiri.

Saat menjelang malam, bisa temukan pertunjukan tarian ”Apsara dance” live show, namun tarifnya begitu mahal. Alternatif lain untuk melihat pertunjukan sejenis bisa didapatkan di resto ” Angkor Mondial Restaurant” ditemani jamuan makan malam khas Khmer, yang berlokasi di Pokambor Avenue, Wat Bo Bridge. Cukup mengeluarkan budget Rp. 120,000,- sudah mendapatkan makan malam dan menonton pertunjukan tari tradisional Kamboja. Menutup malam di Siem Riep, dengan berburu keunikan kerajinan khas Kamboja di ”Angkor Night  Market”, sebuah pasar malam yang menyediakan macam-2 souvenir seperti : patung kecil ”apsara dance”, gantungan kunci,dompet ,sarung bantal home made dengan sulaman bergambar Khmer, phasmina, kaos dll, harganya cukup terjangkau jika pandai menawar.

Sebelum meninggalkan Siem Riep keesokan hari, tidak lengkap rasanya jika melewatkan ”Musium Nasional Angkor”, disini informasi dan pengetahuan seputar sejarah,candi dan kebudayaan Kamboja dengan tatananan modern dan cerita yang runut dikemas dalam audio-video sangat menarik dan mengagumkan. Tak lupa berburu  phasmina dan vcd/dvd instrumen perkusi pin peath dan  mohory musik tradisional Kamboja.

Ibukota Phnom Penh dan Peninggalan Tragedi Khmer Merah

Perjalanan menuju ibu kota Kamboja dimulai dengan jarak tempuh +/- 5 jam. Hamparan sawah dan bulir padi menguning serta  rumah-rumah kecil dengan tumpukan jerami sisa panen mewarnai perjalanan ini. Perpisahan dengan Chantol cukup mengharukan, selama 2 hari di Siem Riep bersamanya menjadikan seperti saudara sendiri, sikap ramah, bercanda dan tanggungjawabnya tidak akan terlupakan. Secarik surat darinya dan stiker bendera Kamboja yang diselipkan tak mampu membendung air mata haru.

Daya tarik kota Pnomh Penh yang tidak seramai layaknya ibu kota besar, berupa  peninggalan tragedi bersejarah Khmer Merah, yang menjadi saksi bisu kekejaman Pol Pot saat berkuasa th. 1975 – 1979, membuat hati menjadi miris seperti di iris-iris. Coeung Ek Genocidal sebuah lokasi pembantaian yang telah dijadikan monumen untuk mengenang para korban pembunuhan, lokasinya 15 km dari Pnomh Penh arah luar kota. Tempat ini terkenal dengan sebutan ” The Killing Fields” yang  pernah difilmkan dilayar lebar. Tengkorak dan tulang-tulang wanita, pria dewasa dan anak-anak yang meninggal serta beberapa pakainan saat kejadian turut dipajang. Sebuah pohon besar di areal tersebut menambah kesan mistis, konon pohon ini mampu meredam suara, sehingga tidak ada seorangpun diluar sana dapat mendengar tangisan dan permintaan tolong korban kekejaman. Masyarakat setempat menamakan ”magic tree”.

Musium Toel Sleng  adalah bekas gedung sekolah berlantai 3 yang dijadikan penjara bagi tersangka yang tidak mematuhi paham dan ajaran Rezim Khmer Merah. Bangunan bekas penjara dengan tempat tidur, borgol besi dan kaleng air minum serta ceceran darah mengering disepanjang lantai membuktikan kekejaman dan siksaan yang dalami penduduk Kamboja kala itu. Gambaran foto para tersangka, berbagai macam jenis penyiksaan terhadap manusia seperti pembakaran hidup-hidup, sengatan serangga sciorpion, bayi-bayi yang dipenggal dan dibenturkan tubuhnya ke pohon sampai mati didepan orang tuanya, pencambukan massal dan benda-benda yang menjadi saksi bisu atas kekejaman Pol Pot membuat bulu kuduk merinding dan hati semakin tersayat. Adanya penampakan hantu yang tertangkap kamera, pernah juga ditulis oleh koran lokal.

 

Belanja dan Kuliner Ekstrim Seputar Pnomh Penh

Russian Market menjadi pilihan belanja souvenir, kain tenun dan selendang sutra  khas Kamboja bisa didapatkan dengan harga cukup kompetitif. Beberapa souvenir kecil seperti tempat pulpen,kartu nama,kaos dll juga terdapat disini.  Sekedar mencoba kuliner sore hari di alun-alun kota,  pedagang asongan menawarkan Lotus yang diambil bijinya sebagai camilan, ringan rasanya mirip belinjo. Kuliner yang ekstrim juga terdapat diantaranya seperti : kebab tarantula, aneka serangga goreng dan ”phon tea khon” telur itik atau ayam yang direbus berisi fetus  di dalamnya….hhhhmmm berani mencobanya??? Kekayaan budaya, peninggalan sejarah dan kuliner Kamboja cukup unik dan menarik, sayang jika dilewatkan.

Oleh: Henny Hendarjanti

 

*Naskah ini terpilih sebagai lima naskah terfavorit dalam kompetisi Lomba Menulis Perjalanan ke ASEAN yang diadakan Redaksi Litera dalam ajang ASEAN Literary Festival 2017

Editor Litera

The author Editor Litera

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